The role and application of vitamins in cosmetics

Throughout history we have read of the use of various oils, fats, volatiles, etc of vegetable and animal origin in the treatment of external ailments and injuries, as well as for beautification.

In recent times, we hear of the use of fish oils, oils of amphibians, eggs, butter, fruits juices- particular citrus fruits-alone or in combination with other active substances, for application to the skin with the object of beautifying and/or healing the human body.

While some of these preparations can only be termed quackery, in others objective improvement as a result of their use can only lead one to assume that some active substance is present. In some instances, no doubt, the beneficial results are due to the presence of certain vitamins, which we now know to have therapeutic as well as prophylactic value when applied topically. 

The vitamins that are of interest are vitamins A, D, E, pathothenic acid, C, niacin, B1, B2, B6 and biotin, as well as the essential fatty acids, linoleic and arichidonic which were sometimes in the past collectively referred to as vitamin F.

Why topical application of Vitamins?

Beaar and Vogel, Flesch and Reiss and Campbell, a review of the use of vitamin A in dermatological and especially cosmetic, applications has been published by Siemers and Sleezer. These authors recommend concentration of 1,000 to 5,000 units of vitamin A per gram for cosmetic purpose.

Vitamin D. Because of the close association of vitamin D with vitamin A in fish oils it has been common practice to include vitamin D in topical preparations containing vitamin A. The combination has been reported to stimulate epithelial growth and promote healthy granulation and re-epithelization of burned areas. Vitamin D is, as already started, closely associated with skin since it is normally formed upon exposure of the skin to sun light. 

It has been found that due to disturbances of the blood calcium : phosphorus ratio, vitamin D may be involved in certain dermatoses. Psoriasis and chronic eczema have been treated with varying success by topical application of vitamin D, but opinions are divided about its effect on psoriasis and neurodermatitis.

Vitamin E. Vitamin E as either alpha-tocopherol acetate or the unesterified form applied topically has been demonstrated to be useful in relieving severe itching and promoting healing of the skin. Sobel has reported that vitamin E in combination with Vitamin A, produces increased storage of vitamin A in the rat when both are applied topically. The increased vitamin A storage in the presence of vitamin E has been described as a "sparing action" by the E. This may be either a type of synergism or possibly an antioxidant effect in the tissue by the biologically active vitamin E.

There are numerous reports of its therapeutic effect in dermatology, although some of them have been difficult to substantiate. However, dermatologists have recommended vitamin E in the treatment of leg ulcers, corns and more widely for burns and wounds. 

Biotin. One of the classic symptoms of biotin deficiency in various animal species is the development of dermatitic lesions. Observations in European clinics during World War II revealed frequent occurrence of severe dermatitic lesions, especially seborrheic dermatitis and Leiner’s disease, particularly in young infants. Restricted maternal diets low in biotin were implicated, and healing of the lesions was observed following biotin therapy. 

Panthenol. When given orally, parenterally or topically, panthenol is converted in the body to pantothenic acid. In experiments one of the main effects of a deficiency of this vitamin is the development of lesions of the skin or hair. Pfaltz reported the local application of panthenol to given even more favorable results than oral dosage in treating achromotrichia. 

Although in humans a deficiency of pantothenic acid is not seen due to the widespread occurrence of this vitamin in foods, nevertheless there is abundant evidence for the healing effect of panthenol applied to the skin. Numerous investigators in the United States have reported successful treatment of variety of skin disorders with topical panthenol. The European literature contains even more abundant evidence of the benefits to be derived from topically applied panthenol. Cuaneous ulcerations, lupus erythematosus, burns, wounds, fissures and corneal lesions are among the disorders successfully treated by local application of panthenol.

Pyridoxine. A number of authors have described the dermatological symptoms of a vitamin B6 deficiency, particularly in association with essential fatty acid metabolism. Infants suffering from a disturbance of vitamin B6 metabolizm are frequently found to be suffering concurrently from desquamative erythrodermia; general B-complex disfunction is incriminated.

Incorporation of Vitamins in Cosmetics

Vitamin A, D3, E, Panthenol and pyridoxine hydrochloride are incorporated in a number o well known commercial cosmetic and pharmaceutical products for their cosmetic and therapeutic effects. Among the already marketed preparations containing vitamins are the following forms: creams, ointments, lipsticks, aerosol hair sprays and lotions.

The incorporation of vitamins into cosmetic preparations requires knowledge of the chemical and physical properties of the vitamins. The stability characteristics of the individual vitamins are well known and are standard information in pharmaceutical text and reference books. The incorporation or inclusion of vitamins into cosmetic preparations is governed by the same general principles used in the addition of vitamins to pharmaceutical products. The literature abounds with studies of the stability and formulation of solid and liquid forms of vitamin preparations which will be of value to the cosmetic chemist in his experimental formulations. There is no fundamental difference in the incorporation of vitamins into cosmetics as compared with pharmaceuticals. The many years of successful marketing of pharmaceutical vitamin dosage forms attest to the practicality of formulating vitamin products. The cosmetic chemist can generally prepare vitamin formulation in the usual manner with standard equipment by maintaining the conditions for the optimum stability of the vitamins involved.